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 Topic  |
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iowa
FanatiKal
IA, USA
161 Posts |
 Posted - 05/03/2010 : 22:45:53
Am starting a new thread
for the restoration of this car
which i bought on 5/1/10it will need a complete floor and frame rails
and maybe rockers under the doors what would be the correct sequence of steps
to install these new metal pieces?
also because the rear rails and floor are rusted thru
how does one attach a rotisserie
to turn the car upside down? thanks
iowa
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RalphJr
KRAZY!
GA, USA
1027 Posts |
Posted - 05/04/2010 : 07:32:32
Iowa,I wouldn't turn it over until the metal repair is done - most experts use a frame under the car to keep it true. My Car need a full floor too - for rust and racing damage. Go to www.mustangcentralga.com and look under new projects - you'll see his work on my '65 K 2+2. I'm not sure there is a correct sequence, but most guys I talked to would start at the back and work forward. This is how they repaired my car - the floor was done last. Good luck on your project!
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iowa
FanatiKal
IA, USA
161 Posts |
Posted - 05/04/2010 : 09:37:36
this is the floor piece that i intend to use
would this be okay
is there another better place to get one?
thanks
davesorry, forgot the link: http://www.mustangsunlimited.com/itemdy00.asp?T1=FTP65+01# Edited by - iowa on 05/04/2010 09:38:01
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RalphJr
KRAZY!
GA, USA
1027 Posts |
Posted - 05/04/2010 : 20:12:32
If your car is rusted that bad yes this would be a good solution - HOWEVER the axle plate will not be correct for a K code - do a search on the archive and you'll see the difference.I've seen this part in person - MU had one on the Georgia show room floor a month or so ago. Looked nice, but you will really need to brace up the remainder of the car to keep it true before cutting it this much. Too hard to explain here but really critical. You should be able to swap out the axle plate from your car or get a repop - again search the archive for the repop source. I hope this helps.
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iowa
FanatiKal
IA, USA
161 Posts |
Posted - 05/04/2010 : 21:47:47
could s.o. post a picture of this axle plate?
thanks
dave
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RalphJr
KRAZY!
GA, USA
1027 Posts |
Posted - 05/05/2010 : 07:10:32
Click on OR Cut and paste the link below to a new IE window - it will take you to a posting in the archive or search on "rebound" in the archive search box on the left. There are plenty of photos in this posting and plenty of info on the axle rebound plate.http://www.hipomustang.com/hpmx/topic.asp?TOPIC_ID=9024&SearchTerms=rebound
Edited by - RalphJr on 05/05/2010 07:11:09
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lscman
Kommitted
KY, USA
61 Posts |
Posted - 05/05/2010 : 09:59:46
Is this a DynaCorn product or did someone else come up with it and wonder how they fit?
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iowa
FanatiKal
IA, USA
161 Posts |
Posted - 05/06/2010 : 12:06:35
in the wwii jeep world
we are fanatic about saving
every square inch of original metal
that we can.
is this true for these K cars as well
dave
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RalphJr
KRAZY!
GA, USA
1027 Posts |
Posted - 05/06/2010 : 17:10:31
I think it varies by owner and the extent of the rust. That is how I approached my K code repair - I only replaced what was bad and kept as much original as possible.I only did the complete floor due to extensive rust and damage from racing (lost drive shaft due to u-joint failure) and previous owner damage in the shifter area. I did retain the origianl seat platforms with a minor lower edge repair. I am really happy with the results. We also put full quarter panel skins on - my body guy doesn't like big patch areas because it is too much work to get the inside of the trunk looking OK. My rust just went too far up around the wheel opening for patches. Again I am really happy with the results.
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iowa
FanatiKal
IA, USA
161 Posts |
Posted - 05/06/2010 : 22:41:54
here is a pic of my car!
pretty rough.
the rear of the rear inner rails are
rusted thru so the spring brackets
were pushed up into the trunk area
when we used a bobcat to offload it from the tailer!
i'm going to put the new entire floor piece in 1st
the one i linked to above,
but will need to get the car aligned on jacks 1st.
i'm thinking about getting the doors to close properly
and then weld long pieces of angle iron across the inner
and outer sides of the car
(also width ways)
to hold the car from sagging.
then will cut out old floor
sand blast the car and then weld in the new floor
fortunately the rockers under the doors are in pretty
fair shape, so they will help hold the car some
how does this sound?
iowa
Edited by - iowa on 05/06/2010 22:43:49
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iowa
FanatiKal
IA, USA
161 Posts |
Posted - 05/08/2010 : 08:46:19
looked at a used hood today
not too bad,
but hinge attachment area
looks like the captured nuts
are bad.
is this a hard fix?
are the hoods the same for the 65 and 66's?
thanks
iowa
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bigal
Kommitted
FL, USA
53 Posts |
Posted - 05/09/2010 : 16:52:27
Looks like an easy project!
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mcfly
Kommitted
NY, USA
84 Posts |
Posted - 05/09/2010 : 18:59:30
Nice project.
Unless you are in a huge rush I would hold out for some choice sheetmetal.NOS if you can.Makes a big difference down the road.There are plenty of nice pieces out there.mike
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SixT5HiPo
Enforcer!
PA, USA
4994 Posts |
Posted - 05/09/2010 : 22:40:29
quote:
Nice project.
Unless you are in a huge rush, I would hold out for some choice (NOS) sheet metal...Makes a big difference down the road. There are plenty of nice pieces (still) out there.mike
Great advice!
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iowa
FanatiKal
IA, USA
161 Posts |
Posted - 05/10/2010 : 10:28:24
what are the best sources for the sheet metal?
dave
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caspian65
Kontributor
NC, USA
2480 Posts |
Posted - 05/10/2010 : 10:50:18
Depending on what your final goal is with the car, you might also consider good original sheet metal. There are still lots of nice low-option coupes that can be used for parts, including sheet metal. Finding one built at the same assembly plant around the same time in production as your car would yield the most authentic parts.
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289route66
FanatiKal
MO, USA
107 Posts |
Posted - 05/10/2010 : 11:20:48
What about cutting the date codes out of the fenders and hood and welding them into OEM parts if the correct date codes can't be found? Is this acceptable for Iowa and others restoring k codes?
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caspian65
Kontributor
NC, USA
2480 Posts |
Posted - 05/10/2010 : 14:33:27
quote:
What about cutting the date codes out of the fenders and hood and welding them into OEM parts if the correct date codes can't be found? Is this acceptable for Iowa and others restoring k codes?
Depends on what the final goal is, but would consider that an option if one is looking to get the car as authentic/period-correct as possible.
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iowa
FanatiKal
IA, USA
161 Posts |
Posted - 05/10/2010 : 15:12:41
the code numbers are pretty scarced,
i'll be leaving them no matter what.
iowa
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iowa
FanatiKal
IA, USA
161 Posts |
Posted - 05/10/2010 : 22:30:04
i am about done tearing the car down
and am convinced that i need an entire new floor.
this will be from the firewall to the very rear of the car
as i had posted above.
i am trying to think of what braces
i will need to weld in before i cut out the old flooring.
the more i look at this fastback
the more i am convinced
that it should maintain it's shape
without much bracing.
so....i think i will weld in a brace from door to door post
to maintain the width dimension,
and than once i get the door to fit right,
i'll weld in a brace from the frt to rear door pillars
on both sides.
does this seem logical?
thanks
iowa daveps does anyone recognize the meaning on my wwii jeep bumper? 
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jwc66k
RidiKulous
CA, USA
479 Posts |
Posted - 05/10/2010 : 23:17:58
Take a look at your intro post http://www.hipomustang.com/hpmx/topic.asp?TOPIC_ID=10296 8th response.
Jim
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mcfly
Kommitted
NY, USA
84 Posts |
Posted - 05/11/2010 : 06:45:13
I am surprized I didn't notice that before,being a closet trekkie.-mike-
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iowa
FanatiKal
IA, USA
161 Posts |
Posted - 05/11/2010 : 07:11:11
i should have know you guys are pretty sharp!but........back to the bracing.......
the top is intact
the rockers below the doors are solid
and the rear fenders are rusted
but still will hold the rear of the car. i guess i need some mustang expert advice
as to how much bracing i will need
when the floor is out? i'd like to brace it,
cut the old floor out,
sand blast it outside on the BB court,
put it back in the garage,
build a frame under it
to make sure the frame measurements all line up,
and then weld in the new floor. d
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289route66
FanatiKal
MO, USA
107 Posts |
Posted - 05/11/2010 : 09:27:48
I had a full floor pan installed in my '66 c code fastback. No bracing was used and the floor and alignment turned out like new. The car was not moved around like you are planning to do for sandblasting. Alex
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iowa
FanatiKal
IA, USA
161 Posts |
Posted - 05/11/2010 : 14:16:24
i'll probably brace some just to make sure
blast
then install the floor etc.
thanks for all your help guys.
will order the big floor piece today
will probably go with mustang unlimited
iowaEdited by - iowa on 05/11/2010 14:31:29
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cobraboy
RidiKulous
United Kingdom
369 Posts |
Posted - 05/11/2010 : 14:59:57
Talking of sheetmetal, how many stamping plants were there?
I know there was Dearborn and Cleveland, were there any others ?
Would say a Dearborn car have all its panels with a D on or would they have sourced panels from other stamping plants as well ?
leading to a mix of letters on a particular car.
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iowa
FanatiKal
IA, USA
161 Posts |
Posted - 05/11/2010 : 15:47:47
i see mustang unlimited's full body pan is 2300
and mustang depo's is 2500
suppose it has s.t. to do with the freight etc.?
iowa
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caspian65
Kontributor
NC, USA
2480 Posts |
Posted - 05/11/2010 : 16:47:57
As I mentioned previously, you could find a decent parts coupe for $5-6k. You'll be way ahead of the game if you find a solid one to get sheet metal from.
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bigal
Kommitted
FL, USA
53 Posts |
Posted - 05/11/2010 : 17:10:58
quote:
As I mentioned previously, you could find a decent parts coupe for $5-6k. You'll be way ahead of the game if you find a solid one to get sheet metal from.
+1
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iowa
FanatiKal
IA, USA
161 Posts |
Posted - 05/11/2010 : 22:06:41
i will wait a bit
till i consider this possibility
thanks for advise
dave
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iowa
FanatiKal
IA, USA
161 Posts |
Posted - 05/13/2010 : 07:01:47
have thot about using a solid car for parts.
the only trouble i have with this,
is if this parts car was that solid
that one would be destroying another potentially
salvagable classic car in doing this.
is guess if a mustang was in a wreck
and all was totalled except the floor pan
then this would be the solution
iowa
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caspian65
Kontributor
NC, USA
2480 Posts |
Posted - 05/13/2010 : 07:55:54
As I've said all along, it's your choice. I would rather use original sheet metal from a low option car that has little value to fix a higher value K code. You could always repair the low value car with reproduction sheet metal and put it back on the road.
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iowa
FanatiKal
IA, USA
161 Posts |
Posted - 05/13/2010 : 09:04:05
i do see the logic there.
i will consider it.
hope n.o. gets upset
if i due put in a new floor.
if it were made right
it would really help me
in lining up things on rebuild
iowa
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caspian65
Kontributor
NC, USA
2480 Posts |
Posted - 05/13/2010 : 10:31:27
Nobody here is going to get upset, it's your car and you do whatever is in your best interest. All we can do here is help when you have questions.On the repro floor, you're going to find some differences between it and your original. Search old topics here and on other forums to educate yourself on what those differences are. You'll most likely learn very quick why I recommend a nice parts car.
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iowa
FanatiKal
IA, USA
161 Posts |
Posted - 05/13/2010 : 15:57:42
i'll wait so more before deciding
will give me time to look for parts car
and research the posts about the repro floors
while i remove old floor in my k car
thanks
iowa
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caspian65
Kontributor
NC, USA
2480 Posts |
Posted - 05/13/2010 : 16:48:08
Sounds like a plan.One additional word of advice... don't throw anything away until the car is back together (including cut-out sheet metal.) I'm sure you learned this from your Jeep restorations.
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iowa
FanatiKal
IA, USA
161 Posts |
Posted - 05/13/2010 : 17:24:17
yes, i learned that long ago
and it has saved me many times.
i know there will some special 'K'
things i will need to save.i found an article on sheetmetal
in the march issue of 'mustang monthly'
which talks about all the new sheetmetal
which is available now,
but it didn't mention how close to the
original that these were.
iowa
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fluusfabs
Knowledgeable
IA, USA
9 Posts |
Posted - 05/13/2010 : 18:13:54
I do not know where you live but give me a call in indianola 515-314-1160 i just finished putting the floor in one last week am now putting rear quarters on have already put firewall both front frames and inner fenders , if you want to come and look your welcome to do that Larry
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round2K
KRAZY!
BC, Canada
1519 Posts |
Posted - 05/13/2010 : 20:48:25
Ultimately you're going to put a lot of work into the car, and the best return on your investment will come from using original sheet metal if you can get it. The idea of a donor car might seem steep at first, but it will pay off in the long run. The scrutiny these cars receive from buyers can have big impact on the resale value if it's done with repro parts vs. originals. I would agree with others who recommend you seek out a donor car if you can.
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iowa
FanatiKal
IA, USA
161 Posts |
Posted - 05/16/2010 : 05:56:01
i have available,
a '66 six cylinder coupe.
would this be an acceptable source
if it has a fairly solid floor,
or were these six's built with
different gauge of sheetmetal?
thanks
iowa
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caspian65
Kontributor
NC, USA
2480 Posts |
Posted - 05/16/2010 : 13:58:19
You need to be looking for a '65, not a '66.No difference in sheet metal gauge, but obviously lots of little differences throughout the car.
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