I have read a couple of the Paxton posts in this forum and it looks like this is the way I want go to get some more power out of my engine.

Where can I buy a classic Paxton?

Are there any modifications I need to do to the engine? It’s a standard Hipo engine with arvinode exhaust.

conleyr107@sbcglobal.net

He bought all the tooling & parts for the ball drive Paxton's from the Paxton Company. They only sells the gear drive style now.

I think he is charging $3000 for the complete GT-350 type Paxton kit. That doesn't include a carb. I would advise buying a carb from him, as it will be correctly set up.

I am currently running a vintage Paxton in my GT-350. The motor has stock Hi-Po cam & high compression pistons. It all works fine, the only adjustment necessary was to change the total timing from 40 degrees to 33 degrees. You have to do a little expermenting with the timing to avoid detonation.

I love the Paxton, and in my case, it was a necessity, as I had lost some acceleration with my 3.00:1 rear end gearing.

I'd be happy to offer any advice, on or off the forum.

Z. Ray

What kind of HP gains are we talking about ?

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Did any K code Mustangs-(Non-Shelbys) come with Paxtons? may be dealer installed?

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I have also been toying with this idea.
Even though my kar did not come with one they are period correct and I believe acceptable.

What kind of HP gains are we talking about ?

-mike-

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He also recommended me a Holley 650 DP to further improve the performance.

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Just talked to Craig and he had the vintage Paxtons at the price mentioned here.

He also recommended me a Holley 650 DP to further improve the performance.

Can anyone give me an advice wherever I should buy the 650 or do the required mods to the original carb?

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Is that Link too The spark Arrestor correct , i couldnt open it up

Some pics of the Paxton Set Up would be real nice too view .

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Z Ray , are you running the HiPo Fuel Pump still , was wondering if the HiPo Pump ( Rebuilt ) would be sufficient too run with the 650 dble pumper, i too am thinking of Buying a Paxton Package from Craig , craig did tell me you can run with the Std HiPo carb , didnt however mention anything about Choke Clearance Problems.

Is that Link too The spark Arrestor correct , i couldnt open it up

Some pics of the Paxton Set Up would be real nice too view .

Thanks , Shane

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Z Ray, did you buy your carb from Craig?
From the quote I got from him it seems a bit pricy compared to summit.

If you have any pictures of your setup that would be great.
Either by mail or in this forum.

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[URL=http://s151.photobucket.com/albums/s139/zrayr/Paxton%20and%20Fuel%20Lines%20May%202010/?action=view¤t=DSC_0561.jpg][/URL]

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as you can see I removed most of the wire mesh from the spark arrestor as I wasn't getting sufficient airflow, leaving only one layer. Without the arrestor I was having intermittent flooding problems & erratic performance ( a/f ratios were erratic).

I can't really say how this was caused, all I know is a guy over on the SAAC forum swore by the use of a diffuser, and Paxton is recommending one be use with their new kits for carbed engines

From a reseller's ad: "...... Miscellaneous Components: 8M011-001: Air diffuser. 5.75" diameter x 2.5" tall. Mounts on top of 4150 carburetor when installed in Vortech carburetor enclosure. This diffuser stabilizes the airflow entering the carburetor in "blow-through" applications which allows for smoother operation and improved idle when supercharged ....." and from Paxton's web site ".. if the Holley carburetor is used, an air diffuser (#8M011-001) is recommended.."

I don't know how my diffuser compares to the one Holly/Vortech sells.

Z.

What extra instruments do you have?
EGT and Fuelpressure?
What brand are they?

Where are you routing the hose that comes from the valve covers?

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Z Ray, did you buy your carb from Craig?
From the quote I got from him it seems a bit pricy compared to summit.

If you have any pictures of your setup that would be great.
Either by mail or in this forum.

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I didn't get the carb from C. Conley, I bought a refurbished carb from Holley. They sell them on ebay. They are warranty returned carbs that are basically new. The price is usually a $100 dollars under Summit's price for a new one. I can't remember if it came with the Nitrophyl floats, or if I had to change them. But anyway, you can save a few dollars if you don't mind tearing into your carb to modify it for the Paxton application, and having to work on the jetting for a while. A carb from C. Conley will save you some time and aggrevation, that;s all.

Will post somephotos soon.

Z.

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Edited by - zrayrichter on 07/19/2010 21:23:55

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'66 GT-350
Original Drivetrain, Sheet-Metal, Interior, & Paint

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Thanks for the pictures Z Ray.

What extra instruments do you have?
EGT and Fuelpressure?
What brand are they?

Where are you routing the hose that comes from the valve covers?

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Great photos. Thank you for sharing. That looks like a fun setup!

I was wondering how the Spark Arrestor got its name , When it Looks like a Aircleaner Element .

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".................I was wondering how the Spark Arrestor got its name , When it Looks like a Aircleaner Element .

Shane

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"................... do you know if the Fuel Pumps where changed at the time , i would like too stick with my Rebuilt Pump if possible as i Like the OE Look ............."
Shane

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I have talked to Craig a couple of times now, and yes there is a fuelpump included in the kit.

This is the image of the kit I got from Craig.

It might be next winters project.

I see that most people have this mounted under the dash, but this would cause some problems for me as I have a full length console. Any suggestion on where to mount it? I was thinking about the console lid.

what gauges (type, manufacturer, vendor) did you buy?

I ended up with Autometer gauges. Wide ratio Air/Fuel, boost/vac, fuel pressure and oil pressure.

this is the only one I found with a 0 to 15 dial when I was looking a while back:

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/SWW-114500/?rtype=10

and a matching fuel pressure gauge (but no isolator included, a must that has to purchased separately):

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/SWW-114373/?rtype=10

but Stewart Warner doesn't have the reputation that Autometer has, tough call...

I have heard some gauge manufactures will re-calibrate a gauge to fit an individual application, but haven't tested this theory.

Z.

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the console door might work nice. I would remove it and fabricate a plate to mount the gauges in.

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I spent a good number of hours on the Internet to find some matching instruments. I know the Vac/boost gauge has a too high scale to get an accurate reading. This was mostly meant to be an indication on when there is any boost at all.

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...I'd suggest a steel or aluminum plate. Have a machine shop cut out the holes for the gauges & then paint it black. Cutting up an original door may be regrettable down the road.

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I have a couple of questions.

My AFR is 13.5 at idle, but around 11 when cruising, is this normal?

My oil pressure is appx 50 psi and the fuel pressure is appx 9, is this ok?

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I have finally got the SC installed and my first impression is that it runs great, much more responsive and a lot better acceleration.

I have a couple of questions.

My AFR is 13.5 at idle, but around 11 when cruising, is this normal?

My oil pressure is appx 50 psi and the fuel pressure is appx 9, is this ok?

The kick down has stopped working. I assume this has something to do about the pressure. Any suggestions?

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First of all, checked the fuel pressure now and its 8 at idle and appx 11 at full boost, so this sounds correct.

On the kickdown, this cable goes from the intake to the gearbox. Do you mean it wil help to take the pressure from the carb?